A fuse can look intact while its element is broken, so a continuity check is more useful than appearance alone. For an owner-level check, test a removed, accessible low-voltage fuse only when the handbook permits removal. This procedure does not cover high-voltage, pyrotechnic or workshop-only protection.
Prepare the correct fuse
Park securely, switch off the ignition and consumers, and follow the vehicle’s shutdown instructions. Identify the box, position and rating before removal. Use the specified puller and photograph the original position. Stop if the holder is melted, the fuse is inaccessible or the manual directs replacement to a workshop.
Measure the removed fuse
Put the meter leads in COM and the resistance/voltage socket, not the current socket. Select continuity or resistance. Touch the probes together first to confirm the meter responds, then separate them. Touch one probe to each fuse terminal. A low resistance or continuity tone indicates a conducting element; OL or no continuity usually indicates an open fuse, provided probe contact is sound.
Interpret the result correctly
Never use resistance or continuity mode on a powered circuit. Testing the fuse in place can introduce parallel paths and confusing readings. A fuse that passes the bench test does not prove the socket receives power or the device is healthy. Replace an open fuse only with the prescribed type and rating; a second failure needs diagnosis.
Common question
Can I fit a higher-rated fuse just for a test?
No. The fuse protects the wiring as well as the load. A higher rating or a bridge can allow damaging current before protection operates.
Useful pages for your next check
Vehicle-specific fuse guides
Check the model year and equipment notes on each guide before applying a fuse allocation.