When a phone stops charging in the car, the socket fuse is only one possible cause. The cable, adapter, ignition state and socket contacts can produce the same symptom. Separate the accessory from the vehicle supply before removing a fuse, and check the outlet’s permitted power in the handbook.
Test the accessory and operating state
Try a known-working cable and a compatible low-power adapter. Confirm that the socket should be powered in the current ignition mode; some outlets switch off after a delay. If another socket works, do not assume both share a fuse. USB ports may use separate electronics and cannot reliably prove that a 12 V socket is supplied.
Inspect without shorting the contacts
Switch off and unplug accessories before looking inside. Coins, debris or a damaged plug can bridge contacts. Do not insert a screwdriver or other metal object into the socket. Burn marks, a loose centre contact, unusual heat or a melting smell require repair. A correctly rated fuse does not make an overheated socket safe to keep using.
Check the exact outlet fuse
Use the fuse guide for the exact model year and location: front console, rear console and cargo sockets can differ. The linked V40 guide distinguishes front and rear tunnel-console outlets; its rear entry must not be relabelled as a boot socket. If the identified fuse is intact, supply and ground testing at the socket is the next workshop step.
Common question
Can the fuse rating tell me the socket’s maximum power?
No. Follow the socket’s own handbook limit. Protection may serve more than one load, and a fuse rating is not permission to run an accessory continuously at that current.
Useful pages for your next check
Vehicle-specific fuse guides
Check the model year and equipment notes on each guide before applying a fuse allocation.
Related articles
- How to Find the Correct Fuse Box Diagram for Your Car
- How to Check a Car Fuse Safely with a Multimeter
- Why a Car Fuse Keeps Blowing: What to Check First
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